living the good life

So this is the infamous string cheese loving hip-hop dancing trying to be just like K8 sister...Dev Dev. I arrived in Zambia well guess two days ago but I am still very off with my time but truly time has no meaning when you are with the people you love. We are currently staying at this idk Zoo? i guess it s more of a wild animal park rescue area lol. Anyways I have go ten to see some lions and monkeys when my sister and I took a little stroll in the park. I have also met some entertaining Duchies. Some girls from Holland made us a delectable dinner welcoming me to Zambia. After dinner I was exhausted and I tried to get some sleep. only to be woken from my slumber by a punch to the face. Yes my sister punched me in the face! Wow I really missed her.I also might want to warn you that my sister doesn't have it so bad out here. I will admit I am tired from my massage and sauna experience.....and a nice hot shower. So it is a good thing I am about to relax and watch a movie! Yep Zambia is not what I expected at all. I wonder if Caitlin has really even seen a snake.. maybe she just likes attention. She prolly doest even have a village I guess I will find out when i leave Lusaka in a few days.. until then I will have to wonder.

Fortune Cookies, String Cheese, and Then Came Devon Nicole

Her birth was foretold through a fortune cookie, leaving us all excited for her February arrival. With Benihana’s deliciousness still settling in our stomachs, Ryan, April, and I were left contemplating what this would mean for our lives. You would have to ask Ry and April what they were thinking, but for me there was only excitement.

A little sibling would mean I was no longer the baby of the family. It would mean I would have someone to order around. I mean direct. I mean style. I mean love. Actually, I meant all of those things.

On the day of her birth, a voice came over the loudspeaker in my 2nd grade classroom. I was being summoned to the office, my dad was there. I remember the sheer excitement and anticipation of getting out of school early. And that I was going to be a big sister. That was also very exciting.

The drive from La Costa to San Diego was long and relatively forgettable. I am sure I slept at some point being that a car and I were involved. A stellar father, my dad brought snacks for the car ride- string cheese and apples.

While I have no recollection of actually holding her that day, I do remember the string cheese. I think she probably smelled string cheese on me and that was the start of her love affair with the stuff. To this day the girl is a very strong advocate for cheese in the string variety.

You may call her Dev-Dev, I like Divertido or Devonshire, or just plain Dev if I’m in a rush. She is my little sister, my friend, and my hip-hop music guru, just to name a few of her current roles. And she is soon to be with me here in Zambia! Her plane is taking off from Denver on Tuesday and we will be together in Lusaka by Thursday, British Airways and God willing.

I am sure we will have lots of fun stories to share and none of them having to do with string cheese. Perhaps you can eat some for her while she is away; I hope she can last the 3 weeks without that dairy goodness.

AIDS Memorial Service

On May 18th people throughout the world held Candlelight Memorials to remember loved ones that had died due to the AIDS pandemic. Due to safety issues of traveling at night in the village, we chose to hold a service on Saturday afternoon. It was very close to my heart having lost numerous friends to AIDS since being here in Zambia. I was honored to have Kimee present, as well as a handful of Peace Corps friends that came to be a part of the ceremony.

This was one of the most memorable times I have had in my village to date. Sitting on the grass and in the shade of the clinic’s mango tree, about 25 people from our community gathered. Initially I was a bit discouraged by the low turnout. But, as my counterpart Omsley stated, “This day is not a day anyone present will ever forget.” In my heart I know his words to be true.

After opening the program with a tribute to baby Chipego and Mrs Mpongo, followed by a pretty hilarious rendition of “It Is Well with My Soul” on the synthesizer, numerous members of our community shared those they had lost to AIDS. A headman present talked about how ignorance and superstitions have been dissolved as a result of the work that Peace Corps is doing in the area. One of the clinical workers shared how eyes had been opened due to our programs. In the midst of mourning lives lost in darkness, there was a glimpse of the light that is coming on for so many people in the area.

At an HIV/AIDS support group meeting last month I asked if anyone would be willing to talk publicly about being HIV positive. Two people immediately volunteered to speak at the Memorial. Here in Zambia there is still a huge amount of stigma surrounding people with HIV. Very few people throughout the nation publicly announce their status. It was not until after her death that I even learned of Mrs. Mpongo having AIDS. So the fact that a 27 year old woman and a 58 year old man were willing to get up in front of neighbors to speak was, as Andrea put it, “Unheard of in Zambia.”

Anitra Munsaka was shaking and on the verge of tears as she stood before us to share her story. She spoke of her husband being sick and then testing positive for HIV. She was tested shortly thereafter, along with her 3 year old son. They were both positive. As she spoke I was filled with pride at her courage to talk openly to our community.

Bernard Sivwimi spoke next. He told of believing that someone had put a “curse” on his first wife and having watched her die. Since that time he and his 2 current wives have all tested HIV positive. He expressed regret at not having known earlier about HIV, feeling that he could have prolonged his first wife’s life. He talked about the need for people in our community to get tested and to get the support they need to live a healthy lifestyle.

Yes, it was a memorial service, but it was so much more. As we tied red ribbons to the branches of the mango tree and committed to fighting this disease together I knew that Mrs. Mpongo would be proud. And I knew that I had already begun to see strength and bravery in action. I am confident we won at least one battle, and those that have fallen in the past have not fallen in vain.

Day at the Clinic

Throughout the past year and a half I’ve heard a lot about Caitlin’s experience partnering with Zambia’s Ministry of Health. After spending just one short week here, I have a new respect for what she is doing here. It is difficult to find words to describe the conditions of healthcare in the village. I will do my best by sharing about one of our days last week. I had the opportunity to get a little taste of what it’s like for Cait to work at Chifusa Rural Health Center for “antenatals” (pre-natal care for expecting mothers). Here’s a quick run-down of the day:

-The day begins with about 8 hands touching the tattoo on my neck, and everyone asking Caitlin, “Why did you write this on your cousin?”
-Cait starts to give a lesson to the pregnant mothers who have come to the clinic for antenatals (and in typical Zamfashion, we have started about an hour and a half late, allowing plenty of time for everyone to arrive).
-About two minutes into her lesson on nutrition, we are interrupted by a dog that most certainly has rabies – which in turn causes all of the women to start yelling and jumping onto benches until someone finally manages to make the dog leave.
-After our nutrition discussion, the women then wait in line for their monthly check-up.
-Come to find out, this so-called “check-up” (aka “prenatal care”) consists of a midwife pressing on the mother’s belly and then listening to the baby’s heartbeat through a little metal cylinder (I tried this method out and for the life of me, could not tell whether I was hearing the heartbeat or just my own breathing).
-After this check-up is completed, the women then receive medication and supplements thanks to the acting pharmacist of the day – (Hey Caitlin, I never knew you went to pharmacy school...?)
-Finally, at the end of the check-ups, we are informed that the clinic door has broken and we would therefore need to climb through a window to get out. And keep in mind, this is not just for Caitlin and myself, but also the remaining pregnant women. The only thought that entered my mind was: “seriously?”

In fact, that thought was in my mind through most of the day at the clinic. I have heard the stories about the healthcare in Caitlin’s village, but it is absolutely crazy to actually see these things first-hand, and I kept asking myself, “is this seriously how it is?” Take, for example, the fact that this clinic has no running water. They have no doctors. There hasn’t been a nurse here since Caitlin’s good friend Mrs. Mpongo passed away last year. The government keeps promising that they will send a new nurse here, but so far these promises have been empty. So here is a rural clinic with no running water, no electricity, and no trained medical staff... and this clinic is supposed to be providing healthcare for 8,877 people in the surrounding areas.

After seeing my nephew's birth in the US, I'm amazed at the difference in health care standards in the US and developing countries like Zambia.

Snaps

Kimee is bringing her A game to this photography thing. Here are just a few glimpses of our trip so far...







We travel today to my village and are both looking forward to the adventure ahead!

Hungry Hungry Hippos

The Jungle Cruise was everything we imagined and more and then some more! What I was really imagining was a nice canoe trip down the Zambezi with the majority of time spent bird watching and improving my farmer's tan.

The more and then some more consisted of:
1)Not dangling our hands in the water to avoid attracting crocodiles
2)Being advised if our canoe was punctured by a croc we should swim to shore immediately
3)Having to pound on our boat numerous times to alert nearby hippos
4)Paddling fiercely to avoid the hippos
5)Constantly fearing we would be eaten by hippos
6)Being advised what to do if our canoe capsized while going through the rapids
7)Wondering if we maybe had signed up for the rafting trip on accident
8)Realizing throughout this entire process no one asked us if we knew how to swim
9)Never being more happy to get out of a river in my life
10)Changing from a full day canoe trip to a half day canoe trip at the first chance we had!

Ok, I know you probably think I didn't have any fun. It was terrifyingly thrilling. We asked for the second half of our day to be spent in the safari truck driving around the Mosi-Ou-Tunya National Park. It was awesome to see elephants, giraffe, zebra, baboons, and impala from the vehicle. Then the guide tells us that it is prohibited, but he can do us a favor and walk us over to where the white rhino is sleeping. This is the only white rhino in Zambia. So of course, like any normal people that have already been in danger for the first half of the day, we got out of our safe seats and walked in the bush to see this sleeping rhino. It was huge and beautiful and then it started to wake up and we basically ran like the wind back to the car. But quietly.

I think we are going to take it easy tonight. Maybe bungee jump or skydive. No really, we are just going out to dinner.

The K has arrived

Kimee here - Caitlin and I have switched blogs for a few days; we all know that Cait is the writer of the family, so I'm afraid you're getting the bum end of the deal here. (Check out her post on my blog here). I can't believe I'm finally in Africa! It's already been so amazing, especially having time to sit and talk with Cait about her life here the past few years. We've already had some great chats about development, AIDs & poverty... along with very insightful/intellectual conversations about really important issues such as Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes' marriage. Caitlin is a wonderul host, and I feel so lucky to be able to have this experience with her! Despite her feeling a bit under the weather, she is being a trooper and not letting me miss one minute of the whole Zambia experience. I think that so far, the hightlight of the trip has been listening to Caitlin switch from English to "Zam-English" (really quite amuzing). We're in Livingston the next few days, taking a canoe trip tomorrow and then visiting Victoria Falls. And I'm so excited to get to Cait's village, to see and experience a little taste of what her life has been like the past 2 years. After hearing so many stories and learning the names of her dear friends in the village, I can't wait to actually meet everyone.