The Story Ends...The Story Begins

I can not remember when I ate my last mango. It isn’t that I really care that much about mangoes, though Zambian mangoes are heavenly. I am bothered because it has left my memory. One of so many moments that was vivid and living at the time and is now gone forever from my mind.

Things that are now clear and bright, will they fade into gray after a few days, a few months, a few years?

Will I remember the feel of Mrs. Kapuwe wiping tears from my face? The way Beene’s face glows by the fireside? The sound of JoJo’s laugh? Will the jingle of a dog collar always make me think of Rocky outside my door in the morning? Will I remember how gigantic and pink the sun gets just before it sets here? Bertha’s ability to hang upside down in my chikuta? Will I still have ears to hear the sound of Club Mweka kids singing? Will I remember the way the sun rises over the marsh causing the mist on the grass to look like diamonds in a sea of weeds? Will I forget my “African” tree on the hill? Nambula’s eyebrow raise? The sound of chickens, birds, donkeys, goats, cows, dogs, children at all hours of the day and night? If I came back in a year would I still know every path, be able to see in the dark, and walk through the bush without fear? Will I remember the feel of a feverish Lindiwe in my arms? And Chipo’s smile? Or Busiku and Beene singing next door? Will I be able to close my eyes and picture the trillions of stars in the Zambian sky?

My Zambia has faces now. It is no longer a mass of people suffering from all kinds of calamities. It is watching Mrs. Mpongo healing people every day at the clinic. Being by her side as she is being bathed, too weak to wash her own body. It is remembering her smile, her beauty, her choices, her struggles, her funeral. Zambia fills me with frustration at what could have been, what can be.

My Zambia is Mrs. Kapuwe caring for her own children and nieces, nephews, sister-in-laws, her husband. It is listening as she talks of the pain of staying with a husband who no longer speaks to her, who is cheating on her with her “friends”. She has no way to leave, no way to complete the school she left at grade 7 when her parents died and she chose to get married. My Zambia fills me with anger at injustice, pride at the strength of friends, awe at faith that endures through hardships.

My Zambia is all of that and so much more. Too big, too deep to find words to explain it all. I am choosing not to forget. I am choosing to mourn the loss of this time in my life of living in community with these friends that I have come to love.

I am also choosing to come home, to begin life again in my country. To return to a country filled with choices and luxuries. I am choosing to find a way to reconcile these lifestyles, to cope with the understanding that Colorado Springs and Chifusa village co-exist in the same place and time. It is mind boggling.

I choose to be a voice for my Zambia, so that in some way, you also, will not forget.

Snaps

Pictures, or snaps as we call them here in Zambia, will be coming!!! It is a major pain to upload them here at the internet cafe, so I think a little multi-media effort will take place upon my return. I know pictures speak a thousand words...hopefully my words have given you a little peak into my life here and we can just top up when I get back!

28 is the New….My Age…

It came and went-my third birthday in Zambia. I can’t believe two years have passed since a chicken was slain for my 26th. The livestock got bigger for this year’s celebration, and Grace the goat is gone. This has proven to give me some slight stomach issues and an entirely new meaning to a certain Dave Matthew’s song. My village celebration actually took place on the 20th-starting with banana pancakes with Christa, an awesome Club Mweka party and then a night filled with dancing, drumming, and eating with the Kapuwe’s and Busiku. I had told the Kapuwe’s I didn’t want any presents, only “acts of love”-i.e., songs, dances, poems. Beene, Junior, and Tembo put together quite the amazing band and personalized a lot of traditional Zambian songs for me. It was so sweet. A truly unforgettable birthday celebration. Christa and I cycled into Choma the next day for my annual “what can my body still do?” challenge. We made it in record time and a shower never felt so good! I’ve been at the Smith’s since then and enjoying time with my Choma family. I look forward to celebrating with my American family in September!

Income Generating Activity/Business Skills Workshop

After lots of meeting, follow up and running around, the workshop to train 25 Home Based Care Members came about this past week. I first met with the HBC group in February to write up a proposal for funding from the Peace Corps. Unfortunately, but not surprisingly, the money did not come until now. But it came!

I was able to partner with the NGO CARE International to facilitate the workshop. CARE has amazing Zambian employees that really connected with all of us. Our hope is that because of the information received at this workshop people will be able to sustain the home based care program after CARE leaves Chifusa in May. By having extra income and the skills to manage that income, their families, as well as patients they care for, will have a better way of life.

There were so many highlights, from Mrs. Kapuwe sharing with everyone about her experience of going for VCT, to Omsley sharing about the Memorial Service in May. It just felt like time after time God was encouraging me and whispering that it has all been worth it. People have some great ideas, everything from raising chickens to selling buns to processing cooking oil. One man, after the first day of the workshop, told me this was everything they have needed to know! People were able to learn simple but very practical business skills-record keeping, marketing, pricing, etc.

I am so stoked that this was able to take place while I was still in the village. I only wish I had more time to monitor and follow-up with the participants. My CARE counterparts have agreed to monitor things and provide needed encouragement-hopefully they will be sending me updates.

Keep these friends in prayer as they work to put into practice some of their ideas!

Christa Christa Christa

Just as I am about to leave, Peace Corps has given me another volunteer neighbor! Ok, she lives 25k from my house, but that is a lot closer than anyone else! We have been trying to get together since she was posted in May. Due to my visitors and her infected spider bites we had to keep rescheduling, but alas we made a date.

Last weekend I cycled over to her house and we rode back to my house. It felt very much like I was in 7th grade again! “Hey, wanna go ride bikes?” Rocky came with us on the journey and was a champ, running the whole way. I was a little nervous as this was the path where I ran into pythons last year-but no problems this time!

Christa is awesome-a Girl Scout from South Dakota, she was so much fun this past week. The plan was for her to just stay the weekend but we were having such a great time she stayed until the 21st! How can you not have a great time with a girl that brings Starbucks coffee, dark chocolate and Season 4 of the Office on her IPOD? That is basically a recipe for deep devotion from me!

She is going to be a great volunteer, can’t wait to hear all that she is going to do in her village!

Neighborhood Health Committee Workshop

After lots of wonderful downtime with USA visitors, it was back to work in a major way. I have wanted to leave knowing I have given it my all, so I have squeezed about 6 months of work into the last few weeks. Ironically, just as I am leaving it seems all programs are clicking. I am encouraged that Peace Corps will place another Peace Corps Volunteer in Chifusa area to continue the development.

The second week of July, I partnered with the Health Center to train 20 Community Health Workers. The group, long in need of training, each donated maize and 10,000zkw (about $3) to cover food costs for the week. Thanks to Danielle Vaughns and crew we were able to hand out pens and notebooks to each person. The local church allowed us to meet at the church for the 5 days, and a local woman volunteered to cook nshima for us each day. It was incredible to see the community come together to make this workshop happen. Each person left knowing that they were completely competent and able to put together a training for themselves. We covered the 6 major health thrusts of Zambia-Malaria, TB, HIV/AIDS, Water and Sanitation, Safe Motherhood, and Child Health/Nutrition. I tested each person at the end of the workshop and all passed with flying colors. I was so proud! I really believe that our community is going to see an overall improvement in health based on the knowledge these people have received. With over 8,000 people in our catchment area, it is impossible for the Rural Health Center to manage the health concerns. We absolutely have to partner with these volunteer workers in order to take care of the community.

It wasn’t all business though, I definitely had quite a few laughs. Clarifying the difference between sermons (given by clergy everywhere) and semen (spreading HIV everywhere) had me just about in tears. They really do sound alike! The nurse I was teaching with kept saying “Oak her”, and I couldn’t figure out what she meant…Mad Gab skills kicked in and suddenly it was obvious she was saying “occur”. I have to laugh at these language blips as only the Lord and all my village know how badly I have butchered Chitonga over the last two years!

It was humbling to get to be a part of this workshop. People were walking over 6 miles each morning and evening to come and learn. Women were writing notes while babies were breastfeeding, giving presentations with little ones strapped to their backs. It was such a fulfilling experience to partner with these people.

Pray for these 20 men and women as they teach and treat their villages!

The Home Stretch

This week I have the privilege of making sure Peace Corps Volunteers do not get deported or burn down the Peace Corps House in Choma. That I am trusted to be in charge of 25 people after burning down my toilet and doing a whole range of idiotic things over these last two years is pretty startling for a lot of you. Fear not, I am doing a stellar job.

I have been walking into town each day to check internet...I love this thing. That sentence can stand alone.

In two months from now I will be at the top of Table Mountain in Cape Town, reflecting back on these last 27 months. I am so excited for the trip. Julie, a great Peace Corps friend, and I are heading to Cape Town to stay with a family friend and enjoy South Africa. After 10 days of ocean, wine tasting, shopping, hiking bliss, we head to Cairo to explore Egypt for 3weeks. I am going to try to do things like "part the Red Sea" as Kelly suggests. We do want to climb Mount Sinai and watch the sunrise from the top. Let's hope we don't get strapped with any more Commandments, I want to travel light. Pyramids, camels, Arabic, we are going to embrace it all. Then I am coming home! I am so excited to do life with all the people I love back in the States.

Leaving Zambia is another story though, and I am so torn up about leaving. People in my village have greatly impacted my life as we have lived moment by moment together in the village. I can't imagine the hole that is going to be left with each loss. I will face the goodbyes when they come, but for now I am just trying to make the most of my last weeks in country. This week I am writing up Peace Corps close of service reports and enjoying reflecting on the changes that have taken place in my village.

Pray that God remains close through this next transition, that I live fully in the present, and for safety in these final days.

Blessings!

Bye-Bye Dev-Dev

The little sister is gone…somewhere in the air over the Atlantic at this point. It was so much fun to experience Zambia, and especially the village, with her. The fact that she is a few inches taller then me gave most of my villagers a good laugh. I think when I talked about my “little” sister they expected her to be, well, little.

Our 10 days in Chifusa were full. Devon got to play pharmacist at the clinic, make fun crafts with Club Mweka, enjoy Zambian food, and have me point out the Southern Cross every night in the huge African sky. It was a trip filled with a lot of laughs, Rummy, and Crystal Light packs. I’ve been super blessed by all my visitors, and being with a sister is so precious.

Dev had this idea to have a truly “timeless” day in the village. The night before, we turned my Christmas clock over so we couldn’t see the time or hear the hourly carol, I took off my watch and we went to bed. We woke the next morning and just did whatever we felt like, whenever we felt like it. This included making crepes, playing Boggle, chasing cows from my garden, watching Rocky chase pigs, playing Spit, going for a run, fetching water, drinking coffee while the sun set, and making dinner. When we were completely exhausted and sure that it was at least the next day I took out my watch. Exactly 20:44. We are a rowdy bunch.

One of my favorite stories about Devon from this trip took place our first night in Livingstone. Dev was a little worried at the high-class backpackers where we were staying as there were a few cockroaches crawling across the floor. One of her friends had a spider that got into her ear while she was sleeping and it freaked D out a bit. Being a super loving and compassionate sister I told her that she needed to woman up, this was nothing compared to my village. Still a little nervous she rummaged through our bag to try and find something to put in her ears. She found 2 OB tampons and unwrapped them and stuck them in her ears. Atta girl. I think the spiders probably crawled up to her, took one look and died laughing. We know for sure they did not get into her ears.

It will be very strange to be back in Colorado and not have Devon around to make me laugh. She will have one more year at college after I return home. Iowa is a lot closer than Zambia though, so I know we will be seeing each other! Thanks for all your prayers; it was an amazing trip together! She took lots of pictures and I will try to snag some and put them up here, especially the earplug snaps. You will laugh.

Jumping Off Bridges and the Usual

My last trip to Livingstone was amazing, yet sad as it will be my last time there while living in Zambia. It is the first of so many "lasts", but I was so blessed to share it with the Devster (I took that name from Kelly).

After getting back from our safari we laid by the pool, and then checked out Victoria Falls. One of the 7 Natural Wonders of the World, this is the absolute best time of year to view them. There is tons of water, but you are still able to see the full glory of them through the mist. We got soaked and loved it! Then we hiked down to the Boiling Pot, at the base of the falls. There are so many memories on this trail, Brad and I getting nearly mauled by baboons, cobras coming across the path, Andrea and I eating lunch on the rocks and watching kayakers drop into the rapids. Devon and I had the a great adventure too, swinging from vines like Tarzan and making our own baboon sounds. Very mature and sophisticated, of course, what else would you expect?

The next day I highly encouraged my sister to jump off the Zam/Zim Victoria Falls bridge. She agreed this would be a great way to send our parent's to an early grave. I will let her explain her little jump in her own words...

So as I always have to be just like my sister she told me it would be a wonderful idea to jump off a bridge, why not? So I went to bungee jump and the idea in theory does not scare me at all, I was not shaking or second guessing myself until I was strapped in. After asking several questions I still didn't really know what I was supposed to do. But, there I find myself standing over an edge with a crazy man counting down 5.4. 3... Wait I'm not ready yet! So he starts over 5. 4... Wait I start laughing... so I shake it off and I was ready to jump. So I hear 5. 4. 3. then I am brutally pushed off a bridge and sent to my early death. So I wanted to protect my new million dollar smile so of course I must scream very loud to keep my mouth open. I was thinking about all the things I really have not gotten to do as I fell for a very very long time and the question of why would I want to give this all up for the silly thrill of bungee jumping? But I had amazing form as I was pushed off and I did not pee my pants so in the end it all worked out. It was a blast minus the spinning part where I almost hurled. I am so glad I did it and my trip has been phenomenal so far!

Caitlin again, wondering how Devon got so dramatic in her young age. We are off to the village today for the next 10 days! Pray that we have a safe and wonderful time together. We miss you all and encourage you to bungee sometime in your life. Especially you, Dad...it will conquer your fear of heights!

Regardless...

...of what Devon said in her last post, my life here is SO hard. All of you sitting at home in your cozy houses should feel extreme pity for us roughing it in the African wilderness. I am totally kidding. It has been so fun having Dev here. We are just back from safari and about to head to Victoria Falls. We may have to lay by the pool and read magazines for a little while, just to get our strength up. I know, I know, have fun on your morning commute to the office.

Quick recap of our safari:

Faced with hippos on the Chobe River we had to strategically balance our boat in order to not tip over and become the real life Hungry Hungry Hippo game. That is harder then it sounds when you are with 6 Canadians, 2 New Zealanders, 1 Australian, and a British woman. Having learned my lesson with Kimee, this time I got into a boat with a motor and that made me feel a lot more safe!

We head to our campsite for a little siesta after lunch. A campsite in the middle of the game park. No fences or anything to keep the lions from eating Devon. Let's just say that neither of us got out of the tent at night to pee. What with the elephants trumpeting, and the hyenas crying, we just stayed cozy and prayed our bladders would last until the next morning.

Fast forward a few hours, our guide spots leopard prints in the road and then next thing you know Devon is pointing out this leopard right next to our vehicle. Leopards are just so in style. Next thing you know we are watching four lionesses frolicking in the early morning light by the river.

This was the first safari where I really wished we had signed up for longer! My last safari in Africa (for now), it was so great. We forgot the cord for our camera, but we'll upload pictures when we have a chance. Stay well!

Fortune Cookies, String Cheese, and Then Came Devon Nicole

Her birth was foretold through a fortune cookie, leaving us all excited for her February arrival. With Benihana’s deliciousness still settling in our stomachs, Ryan, April, and I were left contemplating what this would mean for our lives. You would have to ask Ry and April what they were thinking, but for me there was only excitement.

A little sibling would mean I was no longer the baby of the family. It would mean I would have someone to order around. I mean direct. I mean style. I mean love. Actually, I meant all of those things.

On the day of her birth, a voice came over the loudspeaker in my 2nd grade classroom. I was being summoned to the office, my dad was there. I remember the sheer excitement and anticipation of getting out of school early. And that I was going to be a big sister. That was also very exciting.

The drive from La Costa to San Diego was long and relatively forgettable. I am sure I slept at some point being that a car and I were involved. A stellar father, my dad brought snacks for the car ride- string cheese and apples.

While I have no recollection of actually holding her that day, I do remember the string cheese. I think she probably smelled string cheese on me and that was the start of her love affair with the stuff. To this day the girl is a very strong advocate for cheese in the string variety.

You may call her Dev-Dev, I like Divertido or Devonshire, or just plain Dev if I’m in a rush. She is my little sister, my friend, and my hip-hop music guru, just to name a few of her current roles. And she is soon to be with me here in Zambia! Her plane is taking off from Denver on Tuesday and we will be together in Lusaka by Thursday, British Airways and God willing.

I am sure we will have lots of fun stories to share and none of them having to do with string cheese. Perhaps you can eat some for her while she is away; I hope she can last the 3 weeks without that dairy goodness.

AIDS Memorial Service

On May 18th people throughout the world held Candlelight Memorials to remember loved ones that had died due to the AIDS pandemic. Due to safety issues of traveling at night in the village, we chose to hold a service on Saturday afternoon. It was very close to my heart having lost numerous friends to AIDS since being here in Zambia. I was honored to have Kimee present, as well as a handful of Peace Corps friends that came to be a part of the ceremony.

This was one of the most memorable times I have had in my village to date. Sitting on the grass and in the shade of the clinic’s mango tree, about 25 people from our community gathered. Initially I was a bit discouraged by the low turnout. But, as my counterpart Omsley stated, “This day is not a day anyone present will ever forget.” In my heart I know his words to be true.

After opening the program with a tribute to baby Chipego and Mrs Mpongo, followed by a pretty hilarious rendition of “It Is Well with My Soul” on the synthesizer, numerous members of our community shared those they had lost to AIDS. A headman present talked about how ignorance and superstitions have been dissolved as a result of the work that Peace Corps is doing in the area. One of the clinical workers shared how eyes had been opened due to our programs. In the midst of mourning lives lost in darkness, there was a glimpse of the light that is coming on for so many people in the area.

At an HIV/AIDS support group meeting last month I asked if anyone would be willing to talk publicly about being HIV positive. Two people immediately volunteered to speak at the Memorial. Here in Zambia there is still a huge amount of stigma surrounding people with HIV. Very few people throughout the nation publicly announce their status. It was not until after her death that I even learned of Mrs. Mpongo having AIDS. So the fact that a 27 year old woman and a 58 year old man were willing to get up in front of neighbors to speak was, as Andrea put it, “Unheard of in Zambia.”

Anitra Munsaka was shaking and on the verge of tears as she stood before us to share her story. She spoke of her husband being sick and then testing positive for HIV. She was tested shortly thereafter, along with her 3 year old son. They were both positive. As she spoke I was filled with pride at her courage to talk openly to our community.

Bernard Sivwimi spoke next. He told of believing that someone had put a “curse” on his first wife and having watched her die. Since that time he and his 2 current wives have all tested HIV positive. He expressed regret at not having known earlier about HIV, feeling that he could have prolonged his first wife’s life. He talked about the need for people in our community to get tested and to get the support they need to live a healthy lifestyle.

Yes, it was a memorial service, but it was so much more. As we tied red ribbons to the branches of the mango tree and committed to fighting this disease together I knew that Mrs. Mpongo would be proud. And I knew that I had already begun to see strength and bravery in action. I am confident we won at least one battle, and those that have fallen in the past have not fallen in vain.

Day at the Clinic

Throughout the past year and a half I’ve heard a lot about Caitlin’s experience partnering with Zambia’s Ministry of Health. After spending just one short week here, I have a new respect for what she is doing here. It is difficult to find words to describe the conditions of healthcare in the village. I will do my best by sharing about one of our days last week. I had the opportunity to get a little taste of what it’s like for Cait to work at Chifusa Rural Health Center for “antenatals” (pre-natal care for expecting mothers). Here’s a quick run-down of the day:

-The day begins with about 8 hands touching the tattoo on my neck, and everyone asking Caitlin, “Why did you write this on your cousin?”
-Cait starts to give a lesson to the pregnant mothers who have come to the clinic for antenatals (and in typical Zamfashion, we have started about an hour and a half late, allowing plenty of time for everyone to arrive).
-About two minutes into her lesson on nutrition, we are interrupted by a dog that most certainly has rabies – which in turn causes all of the women to start yelling and jumping onto benches until someone finally manages to make the dog leave.
-After our nutrition discussion, the women then wait in line for their monthly check-up.
-Come to find out, this so-called “check-up” (aka “prenatal care”) consists of a midwife pressing on the mother’s belly and then listening to the baby’s heartbeat through a little metal cylinder (I tried this method out and for the life of me, could not tell whether I was hearing the heartbeat or just my own breathing).
-After this check-up is completed, the women then receive medication and supplements thanks to the acting pharmacist of the day – (Hey Caitlin, I never knew you went to pharmacy school...?)
-Finally, at the end of the check-ups, we are informed that the clinic door has broken and we would therefore need to climb through a window to get out. And keep in mind, this is not just for Caitlin and myself, but also the remaining pregnant women. The only thought that entered my mind was: “seriously?”

In fact, that thought was in my mind through most of the day at the clinic. I have heard the stories about the healthcare in Caitlin’s village, but it is absolutely crazy to actually see these things first-hand, and I kept asking myself, “is this seriously how it is?” Take, for example, the fact that this clinic has no running water. They have no doctors. There hasn’t been a nurse here since Caitlin’s good friend Mrs. Mpongo passed away last year. The government keeps promising that they will send a new nurse here, but so far these promises have been empty. So here is a rural clinic with no running water, no electricity, and no trained medical staff... and this clinic is supposed to be providing healthcare for 8,877 people in the surrounding areas.

After seeing my nephew's birth in the US, I'm amazed at the difference in health care standards in the US and developing countries like Zambia.

Snaps

Kimee is bringing her A game to this photography thing. Here are just a few glimpses of our trip so far...







We travel today to my village and are both looking forward to the adventure ahead!

Hungry Hungry Hippos

The Jungle Cruise was everything we imagined and more and then some more! What I was really imagining was a nice canoe trip down the Zambezi with the majority of time spent bird watching and improving my farmer's tan.

The more and then some more consisted of:
1)Not dangling our hands in the water to avoid attracting crocodiles
2)Being advised if our canoe was punctured by a croc we should swim to shore immediately
3)Having to pound on our boat numerous times to alert nearby hippos
4)Paddling fiercely to avoid the hippos
5)Constantly fearing we would be eaten by hippos
6)Being advised what to do if our canoe capsized while going through the rapids
7)Wondering if we maybe had signed up for the rafting trip on accident
8)Realizing throughout this entire process no one asked us if we knew how to swim
9)Never being more happy to get out of a river in my life
10)Changing from a full day canoe trip to a half day canoe trip at the first chance we had!

Ok, I know you probably think I didn't have any fun. It was terrifyingly thrilling. We asked for the second half of our day to be spent in the safari truck driving around the Mosi-Ou-Tunya National Park. It was awesome to see elephants, giraffe, zebra, baboons, and impala from the vehicle. Then the guide tells us that it is prohibited, but he can do us a favor and walk us over to where the white rhino is sleeping. This is the only white rhino in Zambia. So of course, like any normal people that have already been in danger for the first half of the day, we got out of our safe seats and walked in the bush to see this sleeping rhino. It was huge and beautiful and then it started to wake up and we basically ran like the wind back to the car. But quietly.

I think we are going to take it easy tonight. Maybe bungee jump or skydive. No really, we are just going out to dinner.

The K is on the Way

My dear friend and cousin is flying out and will be here on Thursday! I absolutely cannot wait to see her face and spend time with her. We have had plenty of adventures, from AMAZING dance/cheerleading/rollerblading routines in the garage, to road trips from Southern California all the way to Colorado without a roof on the car. I can only imagine what the 20 days in Africa will hold! Pray for her safety as she travels on British Airways and for our time together! She is a brilliant photographer and I am sure will have some amazing snaps from the trip. We will be sure to post for your viewing pleasure.

And if the "A" of "ACK Cheerleaders" is reading this, well, we wish you were going to be here for a perfect trio of cheer.

B.Y.O.S.

The last few Friday nights I have been having B.Y.O.S. parties at my chikuta. Bring Your Own Stick. Thanks to a shipment of Smores goodness from Andrea, the neighborhood has been enjoying gooey graham/chocolate/marshmallow love!

About 5pm the village kids are in the bush searching for their perfect stick and show up by 7pm with stick in hand. The first week we sat around the fire roasting and singing, and then telling riddles-it was so much fun. Last week I used all of my semi-useless Tonga vocabulary cards to create a Catchphrase Zambia game and it was a huge hit. Certain children will now forever be known by their outburst of “AFRICA!” or “NZOKA!”

My camera batteries were dead otherwise I would post great pictures of JoJo Zambia with marshmallow covering the majority of his face. I couldn’t stop laughing when Bene commented that he now looked like an American. I am guessing it was just that his face was now white, and not that Americans usually walk around with marshmallow on their faces. I could be wrong?

This Friday, I encourage all of you to have a little BYOS party of your own!

Salt in Wounds

In the US we have all heard the saying, “pouring salt in my wound”. We know it means that someone is adding insult to injury, that they are really getting you while you are down. I was trying to explain this to Mrs. Kapuwe on our morning run a few weeks back. The whole conversation was a result of a situation at the clinic the day before…

Our clinic is still struggling to handle healthcare for the 8,000+ people in the catchment area. We have had no nurse since Mrs. Mpongo’s death last year. I had organized a follow up HIV/AIDS testing at the clinic, which meant that multiple nurses had come from the district offices to the village for the event. It was God’s timing that this all happened on this particular day.

Mid-way through the group counseling sessions an ox-cart carrying a woman pulls into the clinic yard. She is carried into our clinic and into the back room where I was setting up testing kits. One of the visiting nurses moves everyone out of the room but asks me to stay in the room and help her. The woman had given birth the night before and had serious tearing and hemorrhaging from the birth. She had lost a significant amount of blood. The nurse said she was probably within hours of death if we did not take care of her immediately. The nurse got a needle and what looked like very thick fishing wire and asked me to hold this woman on the bed while she sewed her up. We had no medicine whatsoever at the clinic, so this woman is getting sewn together after just having given birth without the use of any painkillers. It was barbaric. It was the only thing we could do.

I cannot say enough about the strength of African women. Their physical, mental, and emotional stamina is unbelievable. The woman whose arms I held just set her jaw and dealt with the pain and squeezed my hand. When it was all finished and the bleeding had stopped, she literally jumped down from the bed, dressed herself and started the walk back to her house. Before leaving the nurse told her she needed to rinse with water and put salt into the area on a daily basis. Seriously, that was the advice she gave her. Pour salt in your wounds.

Mrs. Kapuwe confirms that pouring salt in wounds really does help keep infections away. How blessed are we as Americans that our experience with salt in wounds is merely an expression, a way to better clarify our emotional state? Give it up for the Africans who pour salt on everything-from colored greens to wounds. You do what you have to do.

Namibia...Africa's Colorado

I have always said that Colorado would be perfect if only we had the ocean. Well, Namibia has the ocean and so much of what Colorado has to offer, so pretty much I am ready to stay! Now I just need to convince all the people I love that they should move out here too!

This past week I have been to Pikes Peak, Garden of the Gods, and the Dunes, except that they were called The Brandberg, The Spitzcoff, and Soussvlei. I guess you can't really find 2000 year old rock paintings of giraffe at the Peak, but there were similarities! Brandberg is this beautiful mountain, the tallest in Namibia, and J and I ran all over that place searching for rock paintings left by these nomadic hunters that used to live on the mountain. Next we were off to the Spitzcoff, or Spitzer, or just Spitz, depending on how much we wanted to butcher up the name of that place. The Spitz is this amazing red rock that juts out of the landscape. It is known as The Matterhorn of Africa. I guess the Swiss felt a connection there too. We camped inside the rocks, scared to death of being eaten by one of the leopards that roam the place at night. Telling ghost stories and being incredibly exhausted after rock climbing and splashing in mountain ponds made us a little on edge that night. It was by far, the coolest night of camping I have experienced. Our last day in the Namib Desert was at Soussvlei, these amazing sand dunes that go on forever. We got there just as the sun was rising and casting everything in beautiful hues. We ran down dunes like little kids and didn't want to leave then the time came! It was a sweet journey home though as we passed ostrich and gazelles on our way back to Swakopmund.




This morning we got up and went sand boarding---so SICK! Sick in a good way. In a, wow, my ribs will never be the same after I caught so much air going over that jump way. In a, "are you sure it's safe to go down a sand dune on a piece of waxed plywood at 80km an hour?" way. Sick in the best sense of the word.



Julie and I are heading out tomorrow, back on the bus to Zambia, which at this point really does feel like home! This trip has been so amazing. Julie has become an even closer friend, and even though we have only known each other these 2 years of Peace Corps, the memories we have together are just so special. God has truly blessed me with great friends here and at home!

Pray for a safe journey for us back to Zambia. You can read Julie's account of our journey on her blog-link to the left of this post. I'll post photos of the trip on Snapfish...let me know if you need an invite to view them. Miss you all.

Happy Easter!

There are so many days that I truly feel overwhelmed by the amount of Grace that God has bestowed upon me. Easter is such an amazing time to reflect on the extent of God's love and power, grace and mercy. That Christ has risen and overcome death is just beyond anything I can truly comprehend. Julie and I were talking this morning about what it would have been like to be one of the disciples that watched Christ be crucified on Friday and then to see Him walking amongst us just a few days later. How raw would be the pain of witnessing His death. I can remember clearly what I was doing on Friday...how much more if I had seen a crucifixion, and then to have the Dead among the living-wow!

We woke up early this morning and took a long walk on the beach after reading through some Scriptures. We grabbed our daily coffee and headed back to our hotel. We put on our "Easter outfits" and headed to the pier for a great seafood lunch. We shared the Easter traditions we had growing up and wished we had Easter baskets but were glad we had each other.

Wherever you are, whatever your traditions, I hope this day was a day to remember that God gives LIFE. He brought Christ back from the dead, and no matter how far from truly living we may be, He can bring us life to the full.